Lot of factors to consider here. One factor is the type of Hasbro
figure you are working on, and what type of plastic on what body part
are you dealing with. You have have different problems trying to paint
the rubbery arms of a HOF figure, than you would the harder plastc
chest of a CC figure, and that may all be different than if you were
trying to paint the even harder plastic of a DML figure chest as a
point of contrast.
Latex dries as a "sheet" which wraps around an object, if you applied
the paint properly, but if you "knick" that sheet, it will start to
break down. If you treated the surface of the plastic to give the
Latex paint some "tooth" to get into the plastic rather than just "on
it", that problem can be reduced, and plenty of R/C model airplane
people have used Latex in this way on their gas powered craft and it
holds up well.
Acylic paints kinda act more like Latex, in that they to dry and work
more in a "sheeting" fa****on also. In contrast, solvent based paints
like enamel paints tend in "bite" into the surface provided the
surface is something that will let the solvent penetrate it and then
dry into a sheet.
Whatever you paint, you need to have the surface clean of dirt and
oils. Sometimes, you have to GENTLY rough up the surface with some
very fine steel wool or fine grade sanding papers, wipe that all clean
and be sure it is dry, and then paint. Sometimes you have to apply a
primer coat, and then paint.
A lot of the plastics I find used on Joes overall, tend to really
resist taking paint, and you may have to use something like Krylon
Fusion as a primer which will bite down into the plastic, and you may
have to paint your final colors on with acylic, enamel, or latex,
AFTER that has all dried out and has had time to completely GAS out.
Solvent based paints need to be able to "gas" out the solvent, or it
will only stay trapped under the surface of the paint, hence never
really being dry. Only gets worse when you slap another coat of paint
on top of that when the lower coat hasn't fully gassed out.
Some acrylics use alcohol as their "solvent", some use nothing but
water. It all matters knowing which is what, and on what plastic you
are working with, and if you are planning on flexing that paint, like
say if you are painting the rubbery arms of a HOF figure, and plan on
bending them around much.
As for what you need to remove the tacky paint on your figure now, you
may have to lightly steel wool that back off, or wipe it off with
denatured alcohol, or even have to use solvent paint thinner, but once
again, to avoid risking damage to the plastic itself, you are going to
have to tell us more about what figures you are talking about, and
which parts ( in your case here, the arms ) you are dealing with.
On Aug 8, 7:24=A0am, "Rob" <ra...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> The figure is Hasbro.The label on paints say enamel.
> AARGH! So strip, clean,and to prevent further reaction what type of
prime=
r
> ?Testors model paints are all that I
have.http://s114.photobucket.com/alb=
ums/n266/RobMenagh/?action=3Dview=A4...
> The paint doesn't look bad, but =A0my daughter can't really use it when
t=
he
> paint is tacky. If I am going to take off the old paint , what wont
react
> worse on the figure as a stripper?
> =A0Rob"Joe 90" <addle...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
>
news:ec1d737f-8897-4e89-8afa-01b54cc7ca27@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Aug 7, 8:49 pm, "Rob" <ra...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > Working on a figure and I am getting an odd reaction from the
paint.The
> > paint is not drying on the arms but does on the chest and neck.I am
usi=
ng
> > Testors model paints. What am I doing wrong.
> > Rob
>
> What kind of figure? =A0Are you using acrylic or latex? =A0Latex is the
> better choice for 'Joe.
>
> It's either you're using an acrylic and it's reacting with the
> plastic, or the arms need a good cleaning to remove surface oils.
>
> Joe90
|
